looking at my pocket logger... Im noticing everytime I attempt to accelerate my timing retards pretty severly then starts to climb as the load is reduced. timing will retard back to 5-9* then advances to around 17*. this doesnt sound right to me, is this a sign of knock? What course of action should i take to attept to trouble shoot?
timing pull?
LIcKwId
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looking at my pocket logger... Im noticing everytime I attempt to accelerate my timing retards pretty severly then starts to climb as the load is reduced. timing will retard back to 5-9* then advances to around 17*. this doesnt sound right to me, is this a sign of knock? What course of action should i take to attept to trouble shoot?
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1,458 Posts
Yes, that is a sign of knock.
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275 Posts
what kind of turbo and injectors are you running, mods? that use to happen to me when i was running the 20g with the 450's it would climb up to 17 sometimes close to redline but around 4-5k it would drop to like 4. Have you noticed if you're running really rich or lean when the timing drops?
Im kinda new to tuning so please bare with me on this...
Relative mods:
T-25
stock injectors
Walbro 255lph
10AWG Fuel Pump rewire
New OEM Fuel Filter
Aeromotive FPR w/ -6AN lines fuel filer forward (44psi w/ vaccum)
3" GReddy EVO Cat-back
3" testpipe
Downpipe goes from factory Size 2.5"??? to 3" after the flex point
Greddy-S
Cone Filter on factory Intake.
Hard UICP
No free Mods
As far as Boost the car builds spikes boost to like 17+psi when the gas is first hit during heavy accel, it then mellows out to around 15psi at 4K through 5.5K. As far as a rich condition. I have an Autometer A/F gauge. (Biggest POS Ive ever seen). I dont trust the gauge at all it shows about 3-4 LEDs deep into the "RICH" section under WOT with my headlights off. If you turn the headlights on it will never go into the "RICH" section. Otherwise my Pocketlogger shows O2 readings around .92-94 during WOT. I wanna say its running rich, most of this started after my Down pipe was installed.
Relative mods:
T-25
stock injectors
Walbro 255lph
10AWG Fuel Pump rewire
New OEM Fuel Filter
Aeromotive FPR w/ -6AN lines fuel filer forward (44psi w/ vaccum)
3" GReddy EVO Cat-back
3" testpipe
Downpipe goes from factory Size 2.5"??? to 3" after the flex point
Greddy-S
Cone Filter on factory Intake.
Hard UICP
No free Mods
As far as Boost the car builds spikes boost to like 17+psi when the gas is first hit during heavy accel, it then mellows out to around 15psi at 4K through 5.5K. As far as a rich condition. I have an Autometer A/F gauge. (Biggest POS Ive ever seen). I dont trust the gauge at all it shows about 3-4 LEDs deep into the "RICH" section under WOT with my headlights off. If you turn the headlights on it will never go into the "RICH" section. Otherwise my Pocketlogger shows O2 readings around .92-94 during WOT. I wanna say its running rich, most of this started after my Down pipe was installed.
Joined
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262 Posts
ticking lifters will cause a timing pull at low RPMs and/or throttle position. I see you have a 99 though and i believe they came with the revised lifters. Try changing your oil, running thinner oil, or run some Lucas oil stablizer and see if it alleviates the problem.
Ive had two 99's. The 1st one the lifters ticked since i bought it. the one I have now the lifters tend to tick on a cold start but go away after it heats up. So I dont know if the revised lifters are really in these cars.
For oil I run Mobile 10W-30 Full Synthetic. The oil is due for a change but Im religous about changing it every 3k. I know what your saying about lifter tick being a possible cause. But I really do not belive that is the issue.
For oil I run Mobile 10W-30 Full Synthetic. The oil is due for a change but Im religous about changing it every 3k. I know what your saying about lifter tick being a possible cause. But I really do not belive that is the issue.
Check this out.
From a dead stop if I try to Accel as hard as I can, Timing is pulled and usually by the top of 2nd gear my car shuts down.
Sometimes even if im babying the car around i can feel a hesitation/sputter like a missfire, that is usualy a sign the car is going to die. Everytime I feel a hesitation my datalogger shows a valley on the timing graph from whatever the timing was at down to 5* then back to whatever it was at again. If that starts happening the next time I need to use more than 1/4 throttle (IE Hills, accel from stop) the car will cut the timing to 5* and stall out. IN either event If I restart the car timing does not advance, it stays flat @ 5* and the car shuts down again after a few sec. I did this for about 15min on the side of the road. Each time I gave the car a little throttle up to about 3.5k, The car would rev nice and smooth but timing would not advance or decline, just flat @ 5*. I was getting a little agrivated sitting on the side of the road so I started the car Mashed the gas the car backfired and puffed at about 6.5K then my timing Pulse shot back up to like 9* on my data logger and the car started Idleing as usual. But ive had it happen where giving it gas will not restart the timing advance. If the car sits for about 30+min it will start agian without a problem.
I dont know if that makes any sense to anyone.
Please ask if you want more/better details ill see what I can do
From a dead stop if I try to Accel as hard as I can, Timing is pulled and usually by the top of 2nd gear my car shuts down.
Sometimes even if im babying the car around i can feel a hesitation/sputter like a missfire, that is usualy a sign the car is going to die. Everytime I feel a hesitation my datalogger shows a valley on the timing graph from whatever the timing was at down to 5* then back to whatever it was at again. If that starts happening the next time I need to use more than 1/4 throttle (IE Hills, accel from stop) the car will cut the timing to 5* and stall out. IN either event If I restart the car timing does not advance, it stays flat @ 5* and the car shuts down again after a few sec. I did this for about 15min on the side of the road. Each time I gave the car a little throttle up to about 3.5k, The car would rev nice and smooth but timing would not advance or decline, just flat @ 5*. I was getting a little agrivated sitting on the side of the road so I started the car Mashed the gas the car backfired and puffed at about 6.5K then my timing Pulse shot back up to like 9* on my data logger and the car started Idleing as usual. But ive had it happen where giving it gas will not restart the timing advance. If the car sits for about 30+min it will start agian without a problem.
I dont know if that makes any sense to anyone.
Please ask if you want more/better details ill see what I can do
Black smoke when the car is started or when its timing is pulled to 5?
There is ussualy no smoke. Smoke only occurs when it backfires, and thats when the timing has been cut. Also this all happens without boost being present.
Ive ran the boost leak test on my car and I found a small leak at my BOV flange. I replaced the gasket, now no more leak, reran the leak test and everyting seems good but my problem still exists.
There is ussualy no smoke. Smoke only occurs when it backfires, and thats when the timing has been cut. Also this all happens without boost being present.
Ive ran the boost leak test on my car and I found a small leak at my BOV flange. I replaced the gasket, now no more leak, reran the leak test and everyting seems good but my problem still exists.
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482 Posts
What does it do when the boost is turned way down?
The stalling out and flatlining is the strange part. Makes me think something unusual is going on that isn't going to be a common knock-retard fix. How do the plugs look?
The stalling out and flatlining is the strange part. Makes me think something unusual is going on that isn't going to be a common knock-retard fix. How do the plugs look?
I changed the plugs and wires when the problem started.
When I pulled the Factories they all looked good, they were tanish in color, n o carbon build up.
Installed NGKs 7's and Mag 8.5's didnt make a difference....
As far as turning down the boost, I dont have a MBC so is it even possible for me too? (Like I said in the beginning im new to tuning)
When I pulled the Factories they all looked good, they were tanish in color, n o carbon build up.
Installed NGKs 7's and Mag 8.5's didnt make a difference....
As far as turning down the boost, I dont have a MBC so is it even possible for me too? (Like I said in the beginning im new to tuning)
Got it... IT all cam down to a bad Cam Shaft Position sensor..
I replaced the sensor and the car runs like a dream... No more CELs, sputtering timing pull, stalling. Car runs great again...
Funny how a 40 dollar sensor can mess up a car so much
I replaced the sensor and the car runs like a dream... No more CELs, sputtering timing pull, stalling. Car runs great again...
Funny how a 40 dollar sensor can mess up a car so much
Got it... IT all came down to a bad Cam Shaft Position sensor..
I replaced the sensor and the car runs like a dream... No more CELs, sputtering timing pull, stalling. Car runs great again...
Funny how a 40 dollar sensor can mess up a car so much
I replaced the sensor and the car runs like a dream... No more CELs, sputtering timing pull, stalling. Car runs great again...
Funny how a 40 dollar sensor can mess up a car so much
Got it... IT all came down to a bad Cam Shaft Position sensor..
I replaced the sensor and the car runs like a dream... No more CELs, sputtering timing pull, stalling. Car runs great again...
Funny how a 40 dollar sensor can mess up a car so much
I replaced the sensor and the car runs like a dream... No more CELs, sputtering timing pull, stalling. Car runs great again...
Funny how a 40 dollar sensor can mess up a car so much
Joined
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506 Posts
where did you get that for $40 bucks? when i was looking for one, everywhere i called was much more expensive. was it used?LIcKwId said:
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