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randman

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have been looking for a wiring diagram for the 2g Eclipse turn signal relay. I have made LED tail lights and I need to disable the load sensing circuit within the relay to stop hyperflash and enable cruise control when the headlights are on. Since the LEDs are programmable, the current through the relay would vary. Because of this, I can't just change the load sensing circuit inside the relay. The plan is to build my own flasher relay out of standard automotive parts, without a load sensing circuit. Going back and forth to college without cruise control is getting really annoying, and I am hoping to get this thing together soon.

Thanks,
Randy
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
During the day without running lights, yes. The load sensing circuit runs through the DRLs, so it doesn't detect a problem when they are off. Since most of my highway driving is at night, that is a problem.
 
What daytime running lights? I mean i dont have the diagrams in front of me but I SERIOUSLY doubt that your blinker relay has ANY affect on your cruise control. They are completely separate systems.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Well I am telling you that they do. I can be driving on the highway using cruise control, and it gets dark. As soon as I flip on my headlights, cruise control shuts off. I have considered looking for a pin from the relay that might go to something cruise control related and bypass that function temporarily, but I still need to disable the load sensing circuit anyway...
 
Let me tell you, the turn signal stalk is one funky mother....

I had the internal cam fail on me about 500 miles from home. Luckily, I was right near a junk yard I once regluared, so I popped in and grabbed what I thought to be the correct switch after opting out of the three prior switches due to them being different. 2gs have at least 3 different turn signal switches, and although the pinout shouldn't change, that doesn't mean you will find one pinout that will work with all three (or more) switches.

I understand what you are trying to do. There is a much easier approach to setting a load on the flasher switch that an LED bulb doesn't provide. When I put LEDs on all 4 corners of my bike, I had the same issue with fast flash, so I went to radio shack and picked up a 12v 20 ohm (iirc). They look like a little white ceramic brick, maybe the size of a biz card, with a wire protruding from each end. Sauder one end to your positive wire and the other to your negative in the wiring of each bulb and your fast blink and cruise control issues will be gone.

Your other option is to go with something like a mechanical flasher unit. I don't know what "style" our flasher is (eg... common canister, or does it look like a 5 wire relay, I just don't know). Look at places that sell truck parts as they tend to use mechanical flashers due to the regularity of changing load on the flasher unit when hooking up whatever is being towed.

Personal preference is to use the resistors. They work great, run you all of $2 each, if that and wiring is really simple (they aren't directional.)
 
And another cheep solution is to simply solder in a standard stop/tail light socket as an extra lamp to each corner - insert a standard 1157 lamp and tuck the assembly into the its respective corner - out of site - behind a panel in the back - inside the fender in the front.

There: now you have a two bulb load, on each side - that your stock flasher will see - and this will fool it to operate the exterior LED's correctly. :tree:

Unlike the perfectly operational suggestion of using the resistor - you now have an alternative proof of lamp function.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
I already tried the 20 ohm resistors. Even at 50 watts, they would heat up enough to burn away the electrical tape around them. And I still had hyperflash. I had actually considered soldering the lights back in. My only complaint about that (besides it being half-assed) is that there is still a bulb that you have to change. And my wiring harness for the tails is up inside the trunk lining, directly above the drivers side rear tire. It would be major surgery to replace them. Also, It would make a great project for my computer engineering class.

I can try to get my hands on a spare relay and do some experimenting I guess. I'm just not sure why there are 10 pins. One in for each turn signal, the input from the hazard button, out high to each tail, and DRL make six pins. Would it make sense that it has two positive and two ground pins? I'm taking a trip to the junkyard today anyway, so I'll try to get a spare one. If I can figure it out, I'll post my findings in case anyone else is as crazy as I am.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
So I went and got a spare relay box from a local junkyard the day after my last post. After fooling around with it for a few weeks and blowing all of my fuses, I was able to determine that the cruise control weirdness is not related to the turn signal relay box, so I went ahead and added some resistance to the loop in the relay. My cruise control still doesn't work with the headlights on, so I looked at the pinout to the cruise module and found some wires that sound like they are connected to the tail lights. That is my project for the holidays...
 
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