[Arcknight02]

LOL still a little confused. Im unclear, do you just have the crank from a 4g64/g64b in your stock 2.0? Because that would yeild a displacement of 2.269L not 2.380.

 

[Super Talon]

yes how ever you are just considering the drop of the crank you must also consider the full stroke... with standard pistons and rod the piston would for sure hit the head because it would also up stroke further... This is why you use a different wrist pin setup. so now the piston goes to just the right distance from the head and then Drops farther down... This block was built by Buschur for a nt car... once i installed it i was still slow as hell.. So now i have turboed it and i have lots of knock issus im having to solve...

 

[Raped]

The question still remains, Can I put a 7-bolt 4g64 crank into my 95 7-bolt 4g63. If so what rod and piston combo is needed

 

[James92TSi]

7 bolt 4g64 crank will bolt into a 63 7-bolt.

Rods are same as 63 rods. That means you can use eagles, crowers, pauters, whoever you like that makes a 7-bolt 4g63 rod.

Pistons will need to have the pin located 6mm higher in relation to the top of the piston. Wiseco has a part number for these pistons I believe... designed for 64 crank in a 63, with stock rod length, 8.8:1 CR, pin is 6mm higher to compensate for the stroke increase. They can do other CR's on specal order too.

Talk to www.monkeywrenchracing.com as they have the eagles & wisecos for 2.3L listed on their site, and can help you out with it.

 

[BICTURBO]

WTF ok someone is suggesting that a 64 and a 63 crank are identical and that you DON"T need a crank to go stroker on a 63?? Have you LOST YOUR MIND MAN!??? Not only is that the most ridiculous thing I ever heard but your continuing to act like we're all idiots for thinking we need a new crank to go stroker??? How the hell exactly do YOU go stroker?

 

[James92TSi]

"WTF" what??

Nowhere did I say the 63 and 64 cranks had the same stroke. Calm the hell down.

The main journals are the same if you match up 7-bolt 64 crank into a 7-bolt 63 block, or 6-bolt 64 crank into a 6-bolt. That means IT WILL BOLT IN.

The 63 and 64 rods are the same length and journal dimensions (again, match up 7-bolt or 6-bolt). That means you can use rods designed for the 63 in your stroker. This is a good thing, as there are a lot of good 63 rods to choose from.

When using the 64 crank, you have 12mm more stroke than with the 63 crank. That means you need to move the wrist pin 6mm towards the top of the piston to make it fit. Wiseco has a part number for pistons that are made with the pin 6mm higher, for use in a stroked 63.

If you're gonna get stupid on all of us, read what I already posted first. I never said the 63 and 64 cranks had the same stroke. I assumed it was common knowledge that the 64 has 12mm more stroke, so you need to move the wrist pin 6mm up. Holy shit, how complicated is that?

 

[Blackboost]

James...

I think BICTURBO is talking about 1FastFWD's comments. Take a look at posts #14 and #15...

 

[BICTURBO]

Yah, it wasnt you I was intending to question at all everything you said made sense. Sorry if the confusion offended you, I should have quoted him or addressed him by name. I dont really understand this internet thing much. I like internal combustion engines much better then microchips

 

[James92TSi]

BAHAHA now I feel like the eeediot. Sorry for the confusion, I didn't see a quote so I thought your post was for me.

Posts 14 & 15 are pretty dumb... so "I'm going to have to, uh, go ahead and agree there.. yeah." </office space>

 

[mc738]

Is the 4g64 crank as strong as the 4g63 crank?

 

[BICTURBO]

Is the 4g64 crank as strong as the 4g63 crank?

Allegedly, yes... however there simply has not been enough time for us to know for certain at least in my opinion anyway.

 

[mc738]

Someone please correct me if any of this is wrong..

I was looking at the internals of my 6 bolt the other day, contemplating a stroker rebuild, and while looking at the crank it appeared to be forged (at least I think). Maybe that is somewhat common knowledge but I was sure if the DSM cranks were forged or cast. So if I was right about it being forged (I judged this by the lack of porous texture on unmachined surfaces, lack of casting lines) then I would think that if the 4g64 crank was also forged then it would be just as strong. But I've never seen a 64 crank so I was wondering if someone who has seen one could shed some light on this.

 

[Super Talon]

the 4g64 crank looks JUST like the 4g63 but bigger. Now im going to be rebuilding my 4g63 w/ 4g64 crank... Had about 10k miles ont eh block and when it felt balls less i desided to do a compression test. well just a thought, insted of getting "Custom pistons every time you need a rebuild wouldn't it be easyer to replace the rods with custom THICK rods and just use 4g63 pistons made in low compression. I called je and they quoted me arround 700 for the "Custom Pistons" and 400 for low compression 4g63 pistons.

 

[NickSimcheck]

Wiseco's for $475 with rings, chromoly wrist pins and spiral loxs. .20 .40 .60 over you choose. I'd rather have forged alum for 75 bucks more... And save money by getting off the shelf rods. BTW - For $400 does it even come with rings?

 

[NickSimcheck]

look, you DON'T need a 4G64 crank.. i don't know how many times people have said this. The guy who's tellin you that you should drives an Acura. I have my crank that was in the 2.0 before it was stroked. all i had to do was make sure the main and thrust bearings had proper clearances and you are good to go. everyone says you need this crank but they can't tell you why. just go to www.ffwdconnection.com and they can tell all about the stroker and how it's done. a 2.0 motor stroked is NOT a true 2.4L engine. It's a 2.3 .. FYI. You have a 92 so you WILL need a 6 bolt crank. If you want the real 2.4, go get it off a old galant. also, make sure you balance your crank with the flywheel.. as you should get the flywheel balanced while your at it.

You are completely right, I cannot believe anybody would argue with you over this! I mean c'mon it's commonsense... You do not need the 64 crank to get more stroke. Everybody listen to this guy, he knows what he is talking about.


Oh BTW, can you tell me how can I pull an extra 12mm of throw out of my ass? Thanks Mr. God of 4G63/4 Knowledge :hail: :hail:

 

[BICTURBO]

Wiseco's for $475 with rings, chromoly wrist pins and spiral loxs. .20 .40 .60 over you choose. I'd rather have forged alum for 75 bucks more... And save money by getting off the shelf rods. BTW - For $400 does it even come with rings?

Where do i call to order those. I will need some very soon.

 

[sfla90awd]

I am going to be putting the 2.4l crank in an engine I am building, a 1990 6bolt engine. could you tell which one of these is the crank I need from this link http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/mitsuc&r.html

thanks

 

[BICTURBO]

I am going to be putting the 2.4l crank in an engine I am building, a 1990 6bolt engine. could you tell which one of these is the crank I need from this link http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/mitsuc&r.html

thanks

Am I reading that right $300i for a complete new crank kit!! that was the 4g64 you will need the G64B one since your building a 6 bolt right?

What exactly is included in the crank kit I didnt get that part exactly.

 

[TEC]

May I suggest the following for a 6 Bolt engine:

Find a Ram 50 truck and snatch out the crank (4g64) - $50

Take your block to the machine shop with the crank and have it assembled (using the stock 4g63 pistons and rods, good time to switch up to 95+ pistons) and clearances checked at the cylinders. Notch the cylinder walls as neccessary to create needed clearance - ~$100 (more is you switch pistons)

Remove material as necessary from the top of the pistons for valve clearance - free if you do it yourself.

This is what has been done for the past 6 years or so to build stroker engines. It cheap and pretty reliable as long as you don't treat it like its a built engine. If you want more info check out the archives at www.dsm.org, use the key word stroker.

If you want to spend a lot of money, you can buy a complete 2.3l kit from Crower. It includes rods, crank, and pistons.

 

[BICTURBO]

May I suggest the following for a 6 Bolt engine:

Find a Ram 50 truck and snatch out the crank (4g64) - $50

Take your block to the machine shop with the crank and have it assembled (using the stock 4g63 pistons and rods, good time to switch up to 95+ pistons) and clearances checked at the cylinders. Notch the cylinder walls as neccessary to create needed clearance - ~$100 (more is you switch pistons)

Remove material as necessary from the top of the pistons for valve clearance - free if you do it yourself.

This is what has been done for the past 6 years or so to build stroker engines. It cheap and pretty reliable as long as you don't treat it like its a built engine. If you want more info check out the archives at www.dsm.org, use the key word stroker.

If you want to spend a lot of money, you can buy a complete 2.3l kit from Crower. It includes rods, crank, and pistons.

err but somewhere in there you have to get a custom rod or piston, right?