I bought the car the way it is and the only reading I can get off of the wideband is by selecting the rear02. If I select the front o2 it just shows 10:1 or so and my front o2 volts go inactive (20 and 80 only). I noticed that the wideband sensor looks as if it was wired into the front O2. I see that it has the nice velvety wire casing and really clean white and blue wires. For some reason the blue wire was cut from the clip and rerouted to the firewall (I assume to the ecu pin). The rearO2 sensor looks interesting to say the least. It has zip ties in multiple locations. Which obviously were not rigged the way they are by the factory. It's too late and I'm too tiered of messing with the car to see what pin that white wire is run to. Can someone please explain to me what was trying to be obtained by wiring it like this? I'm not very good with electric wiring so any advice would be very appreciated.
Wondering if my wideband is wired up correctly
unrealallwheel
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I bought the car the way it is and the only reading I can get off of the wideband is by selecting the rear02. If I select the front o2 it just shows 10:1 or so and my front o2 volts go inactive (20 and 80 only). I noticed that the wideband sensor looks as if it was wired into the front O2. I see that it has the nice velvety wire casing and really clean white and blue wires. For some reason the blue wire was cut from the clip and rerouted to the firewall (I assume to the ecu pin). The rearO2 sensor looks interesting to say the least. It has zip ties in multiple locations. Which obviously were not rigged the way they are by the factory. It's too late and I'm too tiered of messing with the car to see what pin that white wire is run to. Can someone please explain to me what was trying to be obtained by wiring it like this? I'm not very good with electric wiring so any advice would be very appreciated.
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716 Posts
If I was going to half ass wiring a wideband, I would use the 12v and ground wire from my stock O2 to power the Wideband O2. I'm going to guess he did this, then ran the signal wire of the Wideband to the gauge?
About the zip ties on the rear O2, if I had to guess, previous guy wanted to keep the wires away from something and zip tied them to keep them in place.
Either way, sounds like you have some work to clean things up. I recommend, and what I do for my cars with extra electronics is run an aux power source in the fuse box with fresh wires, especially gound wires I always run to new components. That way you aren't overloading any circuit designed for 1 system on your car, its safe, and it keeps diagnostics easier down the road if you're having issues with any add-on parts.
About the zip ties on the rear O2, if I had to guess, previous guy wanted to keep the wires away from something and zip tied them to keep them in place.
Either way, sounds like you have some work to clean things up. I recommend, and what I do for my cars with extra electronics is run an aux power source in the fuse box with fresh wires, especially gound wires I always run to new components. That way you aren't overloading any circuit designed for 1 system on your car, its safe, and it keeps diagnostics easier down the road if you're having issues with any add-on parts.
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202 Posts
There are 4 wires coming out of the front O2. 1 white, 2 black, and 1 blue. The harness that comes attached is clipped into the rest of the wiring harness, however, the blue wire was cut, lengthened, and re-routed to the correct #76 (front O2) pin on the ecu. DSMlink is not matching the displayed value of my gauge when I log from the front O2 sensor (never goes above 11.x at idle). If I log the wideband from the rear it's always in the 15's when displayed on dsmlink. I am so effing confused. It does smell rich like the front O2 reading being displayed is kind of accurate. It doesn't seem like anything I do will get my AFRest out of the 13's at idle.
So at idle, the frontO2 when logged from that pin assignment reads from 10.x-11.x. When logged from the rear it's always displaying 15.x-16. Meanwhile the gauge is flowing between 14.4 and 15:3...ish.
If I hold my foot at 50hz (evo maf) at about 1800 rpms, my afr's pulse at a consistent rate from around 14.3 to 15.5 and I can hear the engine responding to these fuel mixtures as well. Is that normal?
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202 Posts
I realized in the 1st post I indicated I was only getting 20 and or 80 on the front O2, this was because it was simulating NBO2. It fluctuates properly now. But I just checked the rearO2, It has power, ground, and is run to the correct pin on the ecu. The front one is wired as well with power, ground, and run to the correct ecu pin for that one.
The sensor I am pretty sure is a WB sensor. I have bought one similar before. It just confuses me then if I read in dsmlink from the front O2 that it shows pig rich on the link, but the gauge is still bouncing around in a stoich state.
Maybe it's not wired to be registered by dsmlink correctly or something. Idk, that's another chapter to dig through I guess and I don't even know where to start.
The sensor I am pretty sure is a WB sensor. I have bought one similar before. It just confuses me then if I read in dsmlink from the front O2 that it shows pig rich on the link, but the gauge is still bouncing around in a stoich state.
Maybe it's not wired to be registered by dsmlink correctly or something. Idk, that's another chapter to dig through I guess and I don't even know where to start.
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202 Posts
Hold the phone... is the wire from the O2 sensor supposed to run to the ecu pin, or the wire from the gauge directly to the ecu pin?
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