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Over the winter I did this to my 91 Laser. It was slightly different than Miata did it yet similiar enough that I knew what to expect. I did not cut off the round ring which sits near the center of the rack shaft, but I did remove the rubber seal surrounding it in order to allow the grease to coat the inside of the rack. I think if I plug the lines on the rack then there may be some pressure as a result of the grease and me not totally removing that ring, but if I leave them uncapped then that pressure can simply escape causing no harm or difficulty steering.
I haven't drivin the car yet but up and down the road beside the house a few times but the de-powered rack works well from what I can tell so far. I mean, it is indeed a little hard to turn at slow speeds and if I turn the wheels at a stand still I feel like I may break or strip something, but at anything faster that 0 (lol) it is completly drivable.
I am looking forward to not feeling the wheels fight for traction so much when accelerating intensly toward the speed limit. ;)
Removing the rack with 2 jack stands in the rain was the most difficult part of this mod.
The rusted exaust bolts that refused to come off were a pain in the neck until i just took a crowbar and pry'd the exaust over and down enough to slide that rack out (with the tie rods still attached btw).
Getting it back in with the tie rods removed was MUCH easier.
Anyways, job done and I like the results so far. 110 down the road almost in a straght line felt fine, and circles in the parking lot beside the house went better than expected.
Palming is perfectly doable, but I think atleast until I get used to it that I will have atleast 1 full hand on the wheel.
All this came as a cheap solution to rusted leaking main lines on the power steering rack itself. I am sure that the rack can be refit with new seals and lines if I were to choose to revive it in the future, but I think this will turn out well in the end.
Ill try to update after some hours of driving with the de-powered rack.
Thanks to everyone who has posted or replied to threads about de-powering racks cause I am sure I read them all and they all helped.
Special thanks to Flyin Miata for trying this out in the first place to get the ball rolling.
On a side not, I read a post about the steering ratios on a rx7 forum. His description of the process was exactly like I had encountered and I was wondering what the steering ratio in my 91 laser was, if anyone knows off-hand (which seems like a funny thing to say here).
Yeah Chris, I HAD to remove that swaybar aswell. It was not that hard after I removed the 2 triangle supports that were in the way.
Everything came out fine, no strips or breaks, but I deffinatly had to rest my arms 3 or 4 times before getting them all out (yes no air tools here) ;).
Thanks again for everyone input, even if they didn't know they were giving it again.
 
Seems that I can not edit my previous post...
Ok so I have put a few hundered clicks on the laser with the rack de-powered. I must say at first it felt pretty stiff but drivable none the less. The other day at the gas station I decided to make sure my tire air pressure was at spec and lo and behold 3 of the 4 tires were only at 32-35 psi. I filled the tires to 44 and man what a difference. On a scale of 1 (easy) to 10 (hard) prior to tire inflation i would give it a 6, but after proper tire pressure I would have to give it a 3. It was really that much better. So one of the key elements when driving with a de-powered rack is to make sure the tire pressure is proper. All in all I have to say this was a great mod to do to get out of paying for a new rack. The car is perfectly fine as a daily driver and I feel more in tune with the control of the vehicle aswell. I do however have a concern in relation to the steering shaft to rack connection. With power steering installed there is much less force being applied to this component. Is it confirmed that this is the same part used on the manual racks? Has there been any info related to the failure of the little groves which mate the two components of this connection together?
Other than that I am completly satisfied with the outcome of this mod and give it a 4 out of 10 for difficulty. Most of which was encountered while removing the rack from the car itself.
Thanks for any input on the subject.
4:20
 
You really run 44psi in your tires? JEEZ.

Factory recommends I believe 32 in the front.

I just took my car around the block with the depowered rack... I need to put more miles on it first to get a good impression. I'd say it's easier than no belt when moving, still pretty hard when sitting still though.
 
Well, what can I say... The tire says 44 so I put 44 and man did it ever make a difference. This is a DD car, not something I would race with or even push very hard. It has 250k on it and I would bet 95% of it is stock. Also I only paid $800 for it, so it is just my "more fun to drive" car... If it runs for a year or so I'll consider it a good deal, if it runs longer then it's a bonus.
Go put max air in your tires and see the difference, you can always deflate the tires again after testing...
BTW, did you cut out the steel ring in the center of the rack or just remove the seal surrounding it? Or did you even take it apart or do a half de-power?
Whats your opinion on the strength of the connection between the steering colum and the connection point on the rack?
Hope all turns out well for you aswell,
4:20
 
The psi that's on the tire is the max pressure. Not recommended pressure. You go by what the vehicle recommends. If you keep your tires over inflated you will wear out the center of the tire fairly quickly.
 
BTW, did you cut out the steel ring in the center of the rack or just remove the seal surrounding it? Or did you even take it apart or do a half de-power?
Whats your opinion on the strength of the connection between the steering colum and the connection point on the rack?
Hope all turns out well for you aswell,
4:20
I just knocked the seal out. I had the rack completely disassembled and cleaned it all very well with the parts washer at my work.

The U joint? Lots of cars will make noise when the car is off and you turn the wheel... Whether it's a weak point or not, I'm not sure, just check it for play/slack more periodically I'd guess.

And yes, I'd run what your car recommends, not the tire's max inflation pressure. Like ^^ said, it's eat up your tires quicker.
 
Oh I see, thanks for helping me understand the difference. It is MUCH easier to steer with that pressure though ;)
No, not the u-joints. Im talking about the slotted male pin on the rack and slotted female clamp where we bolt to clamp down to the rack.
Again, thanks for your help. Ill drop the pressure to 40 and see how it goes.
 
I've never done any power steering mods so forgive my lack of knowledge, but are you doing this so you can get rid of the pump and reservoir? I'd think that dropping the belt would accomplish the same thing if you just wanted a manual feeling rack. A ledgit manual rack is geared differently so it is easier to turn but requires more turns to lock out that a power rack.
 
I've never done any power steering mods so forgive my lack of knowledge, but are you doing this so you can get rid of the pump and reservoir? I'd think that dropping the belt would accomplish the same thing if you just wanted a manual feeling rack. A ledgit manual rack is geared differently so it is easier to turn but requires more turns to lock out that a power rack.
Taking the belt off or looping the rack sucks. You are still pushing fluid.
A manual rack has a slower turning ratio. By doing this mod you are turning your faster power rack into a manual one.
 
The psi that's on the tire is the max pressure. Not recommended pressure. You go by what the vehicle recommends. If you keep your tires over inflated you will wear out the center of the tire fairly quickly.
BS. I run 40-44psi of tire pressure most all the time and have not noticed any increased tire wear.
 
Discussion starter · #76 ·
I finally did this at some point. Between the flying miata and the tuners write up and my fsm, it wasn't hard. There are pictures in my build thread I believe.
 
Discussion starter · #79 ·
So when your ready to put it back together do you pack the whole tube with grease or do you just grease up the part that has the gears in it and all the seals?
I did somewhere in between. More than just greasing, put I didn't pack it in there. I figured I can re-grease later if needed.

swade
 
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